adobe

Photoshop Compositing Hack with Harmonize

If you use Photoshop for compositing, you’ve probably tried out the Harmonize feature currently in Photoshop beta. It’s a great addition when blending objects into a scene, adjusting color and adding shadows to make everything look more natural. The problem is, Harmonize isn’t really designed for people - it tends to break down on human subjects.

But I’ve found a handy workaround that makes Harmonize incredibly useful when compositing people, particularly when it comes to the hardest part: creating realistic contact and cast shadows.

Why Shadows Are the Hardest Part

When you’re compositing, matching colors is one thing, but making sure the subject looks truly grounded in the scene is another. Shadows - both contact shadows right under the feet, and cast shadows stretching into the scene - are what really sell the effect. Without them, the subject looks like they’re floating.

Testing Harmonize on People

Harmonize works brilliantly on objects, but when applied to a person it usually ruins detail and texture. For example, in a composite with a Viking figure photographed in the studio, Harmonize messed up the fine detail in the image but still attempted to generate shadows. Not perfect, but promising.

The Workaround: Adding a Fake Light Source

Here’s where the trick comes in. By adding a fake light source into the background before running Harmonize, the results improve dramatically.

  • Duplicate your background layer.

  • With a soft white brush, paint a bright “light spot” in the sky area.

  • Run Harmonize again with your subject layer active.

This extra light influences how Harmonize interprets the scene and produces stronger, more believable contact and cast shadows.

Keeping Only the Shadows

Of course, we don’t want the strange coloring Harmonize often applies to people. To fix this:

  1. Rasterize the Harmonize layer to make it editable.

  2. Apply the layer mask so only the visible result remains.

  3. Add a black layer mask to hide everything.

  4. With a white brush, paint back just the shadows from the Harmonize layer.

Now you have realistic shadows under your subject, without losing the original detail and color of the person.

Bonus Tip: Dealing with Flyaway Hair

Compositing hair can be a nightmare. Instead of spending hours trying to cut out every strand, I’ve had success using Generative Fill.

  • Make a quick selection of the hair area.

  • In Generative Fill (Firefly Image 3 model), type something like “long brown wavy hair blowing in the wind”.

  • Photoshop generates natural-looking variations that save a ton of time.

Final Thoughts

Harmonize might not be built for people yet, but with this compositing hack it becomes a powerful tool for one of the trickiest parts of the job — shadows. Add in the Generative Fill trick for hair, and you’ve got a much faster way to create composites that look believable.

Give it a try and see how it works in your own projects.

Editing a Photo in Lightroom + Photoshop ... on an iPad

Not too long ago, I never would have considered editing my photos on an iPad. It always felt like something I should save for my desktop. But things have changed. Both Lightroom and Photoshop on the iPad have improved massively, and these days I often use them when traveling. More and more, this mobile workflow is becoming a real option for photographers.

In this walkthrough, I’ll show you how I edited an image completely on the iPad, starting in Lightroom, jumping over to Photoshop when needed, and then finishing off with a print.

Starting in Lightroom on the iPad

The photo I worked on was taken with my iPhone. The first job was the obvious one: straightening the image. In Lightroom, I headed to the Geometry panel and switched on the Upright option, which immediately fixed the horizon.

Next, I dealt with a distraction in the bottom left corner. Using the Remove Tool with Generative AI switched on, I brushed over the wall that had crept into the frame. Lightroom offered three variations, and the second one was perfect.

With those fixes made, I converted the photo to black and white using one of my own synced presets. A quick tweak of the Amount slider gave me just the right level of contrast.

Masking and Sky Adjustments

The sky needed attention, so I created a Select Sky mask. As usual, the AI selection bled slightly into the hills, so I used a Subtract mask to tidy things up. It wasn’t perfect, but it was good enough to move forward.

From there, I added some Dehaze and Clarity to bring detail back into the clouds. A bit of sharpening pushed the image further, but that also revealed halos around a distant lamppost. At that point, I knew it was time to send the photo into Photoshop.

Fixing Halos in Photoshop on the iPad

Jumping into Photoshop on the iPad takes a little getting used to, but once you know where things are, it feels very familiar.

To remove the halos, I used the Clone Stamp Tool on a blank layer set to Darken blend mode. This technique is brilliant because it only darkens areas brighter than the sample point. With a bit of careful cloning, the halos disappeared quickly.

I then added a subtle “glow” effect often used on landscapes. By duplicating the layer, applying a Gaussian Blur, and changing the blend mode to Soft Light at low opacity, the image gained a soft, atmospheric look.

Back to Lightroom and Printing

With the edits complete, I sent the image back to Lightroom. From there it synced seamlessly across to my desktop, but the important point is that all of the editing was done entirely on the iPad.

Before printing, I checked the histogram and made some final tweaks. Then it was straight to print on a textured matte fine art paper. Once the ink settled, the result looked fantastic — no halos in sight.

Final Thoughts

I’m not suggesting you should abandon your desktop for editing. Far from it. But the iPad has become a powerful option when you’re traveling, sitting in a café, or simply want to work away from your desk.

This workflow shows what’s possible: you can straighten, retouch, convert to black and white, make sky adjustments, refine details in Photoshop, and even prepare a final print — all from the iPad. And of course, everything syncs back to your desktop for finishing touches if needed.

Exciting times indeed.

AI Just Changed How We ENHANCE EYES in PHOTOSHOP 💥

Two Ways to Add Detail to Dark Eyes in Photoshop

If you’ve ever edited a portrait where the eyes are so dark there’s no detail to recover, you’ll know how tricky it can be. Brightening them often makes things look worse, leaving the subject with flat, lifeless eyes.

In the video above, I walk you through two powerful techniques that solve this problem:

  • A reliable method using Photoshop’s traditional tools

  • A newer approach that uses AI to generate realistic iris detail

Here’s a quick overview of what you’ll see in the tutorial.

The Traditional Photoshop Method

This approach has been in my toolkit for years. It doesn’t try to recover what isn’t there. Instead it creates the impression of natural iris texture.

By adding grain, applying a subtle radial blur, and carefully masking the effect, you can fake detail that looks convincing. A touch of colour adjustment finishes the look, leaving you with eyes that feel alive instead of flat.

It’s a manual process but it gives you full control, and the result is surprisingly realistic.

The AI-Powered Method

Photoshop’s Generative Fill takes things in a different direction. With a simple selection around the iris and a prompt like “brown iris identification pattern”, Photoshop can generate natural-looking iris textures, the kind of fine patterns you’d expect to see in a close-up eye photo.

Once the AI has created the base texture, you can enhance it further using Camera Raw:

  • brighten the iris

  • increase contrast, clarity, and texture

  • even add a little extra saturation

Add a subtle catchlight and the transformation is incredible. The eyes go from lifeless to full of depth and realism in seconds.

Why These Techniques Matter

Eyes are the focal point of most portraits. If they’re dark and featureless, the whole image suffers.

These two techniques, one traditional and one modern, give you reliable options to fix the problem. Whether you want the hands-on control of Photoshop’s tools or the speed and realism of AI, you’ll be able to bring that essential spark back into the eyes.

🚨 Adobe’s New Cloud Selection Technology: Hype or Reality?

One of the areas Adobe has been relentlessly improving in both Photoshop and Lightroom is selections. Over the years, the tools have become smarter, faster, and more automated. Today, we can make incredibly intricate selections with just a single click. At least, that is what Adobe says.

But if you are anything like me, you will know that demo images shown on stage or in marketing videos always look perfect. They are the kind of photos you would expect to work well in a demo: clean backgrounds, well defined edges, controlled lighting.

That is not real life.
So the question is: what happens when we use these tools on our own photos?

Recently, I tested Adobe’s new Cloud Detailed Results option for Select Subject using nothing more than some quick shots I had taken on my iPhone. The results were genuinely impressive.

Device vs. Cloud: What Is the Difference?

When you click Select Subject in Photoshop, you now have a choice:

  • Device – the selection is processed locally on your computer.

  • Cloud Detailed Results – the file is sent to Adobe’s servers, where the AI analyzes the image and sends back a more refined selection.

The device option is fast but often rough around the edges. The cloud option takes a little longer, but the results are noticeably more accurate.

Putting It to the Test

To really see the difference, I used a handful of everyday photos. Nothing staged, just casual iPhone shots. Here are a few examples:

Motorbike Portrait

With the device option, edges around wheels, helmets, and clothing looked rough and patchy. Switching to the cloud option instantly cleaned things up. Spokes, frames, and even tiny gaps were handled beautifully.

Tree with Branches

This was the kind of subject that used to take several different techniques combined. The cloud option managed to capture the branches and trunk in one go. Yes, there were a few areas that could be tidied up with a brush, but the heavy lifting was done.

Bicycle Spokes

Ordinarily, this is a nightmare for selections. Yet the cloud option picked out individual spokes, valves, and gaps between them. Minimal cleanup needed.

Setting Your Default

If you want Photoshop to always use the cloud option, head to Preferences > Image Processing. Under Select Subject and Remove Background, choose Cloud Detailed Results. From then on, every time you use those tools, Photoshop will default to the cloud method unless you manually switch.

Final Thoughts

I will admit I was skeptical. On demo images these things always look good, but I did not expect my casual iPhone shots to stand up so well. The results from Cloud Detailed Results were consistently sharper, cleaner, and more accurate than anything the device option gave me.

And just to clear up a common question: this does not use your generative AI credits. It is simply sending your image to Adobe’s servers for analysis and returning a selection.

Selections have always been one of the most tedious parts of editing. This new technology does not just save time, it also frees up creative energy. Instead of fighting with edges and masks, you can focus on the fun part: being creative.

Exciting times ahead, and if this is what Adobe is offering now, I cannot wait to see how much better it gets.

The Remove Prompt in Photoshop

The NEW Remove Button in Photoshop that I mentioned about in an earlier post where I shared a video, has been added into Photoshop to prevent what are referred to as "Hallucinations", which is when instead of Removing something, Photoshop would add in a random object.

This works incredibly well BUT doesn't give 3 Variations to choose from, so (and this is new) to use the EXACT SAME technology, make a selection and then type "Remove" in the Contextual Task Bar.

This WILL remove whatever you have selected but now gives you 3 variations to choose from.

Note: Even though this is removing, as it's giving you 3 variations this does mean that credits are deducted.

HOW I Edit THIS Portrait in 2025 – Full Lightroom Workflow (No Photoshop!)

In this video I show how I now retouch a stylised portrait in Lightroom, that up until recently was only possible using Photoshop by making BIG use of Lightroom Masks …

*Newsletter Subscribers can download the same file I use in this tutorial to follow along step by step.